Coppell deli

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Remember when the original Big Tex burned down? For some of you native Dallasites, you may be able to relate to me when I say that when I got the news, it felt oddly like a beloved old uncle had died. This may have been because Big Tex actually looked like my great uncle Norton, but I probably knew Big Tex better than I ever knew Norton.

While I was pleased that they rebuilt Big Tex, I was dismayed to find they thought they should update him. It felt like putting the Statue of David in a business suit. You don't mess with traditional Texas institutions, dadgummit! And they didn't just update his clothes- THEY CHANGED HIS FACE!!! But what does this have to do with food?

My hometown is Coppell, TX. I grew up going to the original Coppell Deli in Old Coppell, and I can give it full credit for my affinity for clean but humble dining establishments that serve top-notch food, especially those that require a little local inside knowledge to learn about. Even when the Coppell Deli became better known and added a more modern, fancy location on the other side of town with the same menu but more sports-bar ambiance than greasy spoon, I always preferred the original. I appreciate the classic, historical permanence of some of the longstanding establishments in Old Coppell so much that I long dreamed of opening my own bakery across the street from the Coppell Deli. So when Old Coppell started undergoing major updates, and I learned that Coppell Deli would be following suit, demolishing their original location and rebuilding to keep up with the growth in the area, I was nervous. It was kind of like Big Tex burning down all over again. Would they sell out? Build another Deliman's Grill to compete with the Twisted Root coming in a block over? Lose the stripped-down-to-just-outstanding-food quality that made it the institution that it is?

The old Coppell Deli

Well I have good news. The Coppell Deli certainly got some updates, but they didn't change it's face. I don't know what marketer/architect/owner combination collaborated to achieve the balance of decor and atmosphere in the new Coppell Deli, but it carries every bit of the same humility, it's-about-good-food-at-the-end-of-the-day attitude, and lack of suburban pretense that the old place had, while adding some genuine improvements. There is now a patio, additional seating, a small bar, and they have added a few menu options that had at some point in the past only been available at the Deliman's Grill location.

The new Coppell Deli

I'm pleased to say food at Coppell Deli is as good as ever. If you've never been there, and you're in the area, I strongly suggest you remedy that ASAP. The burgers at Coppell Deli are legendary, and I have successfully convinced several out-of-towners that theirs are literally the best burgers in the state, and a contender for the best burgers in the country. On my first visit back to the new location, however, I was excited to try one of the newer items on the menu, the gyro, and a side of hummus. I won't speculate on the Mediterranean authenticity of the Coppell Deli hummus, but I will say that it's some of the best hummus I've ever had. It's extremely garlicky, however, so if you'll be kissing someone later that day, you'd better split the hummus with them. The gyro meat is perfectly seasoned, and they sear it on the flattop after slicing it off the rotisserie so that it's a little crispy, like the best burnt-ends of a great barbecue brisket. 

My grandmother (my regular eating companion) is usually most likely to order a giant cheeseburger, but she decided on this trip to try the Coppell Deli's Reuben sandwich. The only complaint we had was that it was so fresh and so fast that the sandwich was too hot to touch or eat for about 5 minutes. That's the kind of complaint I wish I had more often. My grandmother also partook in the famous Coppell Deli tater tots, which, though by nature are a greasy food, somehow aren't nearly as greasy and are much crispier than the tater tots at, say, Sonic. I think it has something to do with their frying oil being at a perfect temperature, sealing the tots instantly so that they don't soak in extra grease.

I may have to do another review someday of their breakfast menu, which may really be what the Coppell Deli is most famous for. Their breakfast sandwiches are colossal and outstanding, with high quality sausage, hearty portions of bacon and egg, and thick Texas toast.

All in all, the new building has all the charm of the old place, and all the added amenities of a rebuild. I don't feel like the nostalgia of my childhood was destroyed with its update, and I know that I'll bring many more out-of-towners and new Dallasites there to initiate them, welcome them, and show them why we Texans are so proud of where we come from.